Trail running in the stunning Chamonix-Mont-Blanc mountains
After my Lakeland DNF (did not finish), I was mentally drained and felt like training and running had become a chore. I just wasn’t enjoying it like usual. But we decided to book a last minute trip to Chamonix, and the trip massively helped me find my mojo again as it was more about finding the enjoyment again with no pressure. I’ve always taken myself off to the mountains when I’m struggling as I find it helps my mood – and what better way to get back on track than to go to the alps.
We travelled in our car and drove down to Dover ferry port then through France (851 miles). We stopped in the laybys throughout France where you can get a power nap, and shared the driving to eventually get us to Chamonix. It’s a long journey, and it took us around 18 hours to reach the beautiful town. We had beautiful weather for the whole week, so we were very lucky.
Adjusting to the altitude
Our Air Bnb was right outside the Aiguille du Midi, so for our first day we took the cable car up – 3,842m -which really does take some getting used to. It was busy, so we had to stay at that altitude for around two hours before we could get the cable car back down. We decided to get off at the mid-way point and hike the 8km back down to the resort to get our legs pumping ready for a few days of being up in the mountains trail running.
Grand Balcon Nord – Montenvers (24km, 1,507m elevation)
Starting from our Air BnB this full route was right on our doorstep. What a start to our trip. It had good elevation and was a great distance to get our legs going. Trail running in Chamonix is like the Formula 1 of racing – think panoramic views and towering mountains all around you, and you get an idea. We had bright blue skies so were running in our shorts and vests for the most part. We made sure we were carrying a couple of layers in our trail bags, as obviously the higher you climb the colder it gets.
This route takes you to 1913m, and you can feel it slightly being at that altitude, but as we had gone up to Aiguille du Midi the day before it was good to have already felt the effects from being up at 3800m before we started running in the mountains.
The paths are runnable, they can be rocky and technical in sections but they are well marked for hikers and it’s easy to navigate. The Glacier du Nant Blanc is a great viewpoint, though sad as the glacier is pretty much melted away, but it doesn’t stop it from being magnificent to witness the way the rock has been carved out.
There is a train station at this point where people take the train up to see these views, so it gets a little busier in comparison to the rest of the trail. Don’t worry, though, you’re soon back to having the trails pretty much to yourself once you move away from the hotel and restaurant.
The route was a 24km circular bringing us back down into Chamonix where there’s plenty of places to eat and drink. The route took us around five-and-a-half hours to compete, but we were stopping a lot taking in the views, so it could be done a lot faster if you didn’t have as much time.
High South Balcony – Flegere to Brevent (13km, 218m elevation)
To start this route, we ran to the Planpraz gondola station and took this up to the mid-station which sits at 1979m. The station looks out southward towards the Mont Blanc Massif and has some excellent views of Mont Blanc as it’s directly across from it.
The route started at La Bergerie de Plan Praz and follows the large southern balcony to Brevent, and the views of Mont Blanc are amazing all the way along. I found some parts of this route quite exposed, which I do struggle with, personally. The paths were quite narrow in certain sections with big drops, so you just have to be careful of your foot placements and don’t look down.
The heat really did drain us for this route. The sun was directly on us with hardly any shade to use for shelter, so you do really start to feel it. The views were just incredible, looking over towards Mont Blanc, it really does hit home just how beautiful nature is. We were tired from our run the previous day, so we didn’t venture too far – we just wanted to be back out in the mountains.
We decided to run all the way back down to Chamonix to extend the route, but there is an option to get another gondola back down at La Flegere if needed. The route down was runnable and enjoyable, and there were plenty of streams to cool off in so we used these to keep dipping our caps helping to keep our temperatures down. Another great day in the mountains.
Lac Blanc – Cheserys (19km, 780m elevation)
Another really hot day, and this route follows part of the TMB route so it was busy in certain sections especially around Lac Blanc. I much prefer being alone in the mountains, so it was a surprise to see so many people along this route after the previous few days, but again it is a popular route.
To start, we ran to Les Praz, taking the Flegere gondola up to the starting point of our route. Full panoramic views again meant we were very happy. We were running up high on this route around 2400m at the highest point so you could feel the altitude slightly with the climbs. I was tired and struggling with the technical sections as my legs were feeling it. I was getting frustrated and struggling to find a good rhythm amongst all the rocks. I did hit a low point, but you have to remind yourself where you are and to not put any pressure on. Stop often and take in the views and some energy. We had some vanilla wafers with us from the local shop, which went down a treat.
The heat really does start to affect you – thankfully, we were wearing factor 50 suncream which is needed when you are so high up in the mountains. Wearing a cap is an absolute must to keep the sun from beaming down on your head.
The route was another circular. You can get the Index chairlift back down if needed to shorten the route, but we carried on. We came down a ski slope so it was very loose rock which was tricky. Luckily we could get an ice cold drink towards the end, as you do find little cafes up near where the cable cars are which go down a treat when you’re hot and tired. It was another perfect weather day. This was our last day in the mountains as we only had five nights in our Air BnB, and there are so many routes to explore around Chamonix we didn’t want to leave.
We went into the town most days after our runs and it’s such a good vibe, with loads of shops to buy the latest gear. My partner bought himself a new trail bag from Salomon, the active skin 12 which he used on the last run to try out. Great trail bag, I’ve actually bought my own since getting back.
Whilst we were in Chamonix we booked ourselves into a Twilight Spa package at the QC Terme. This is a wellness centre at the foot of Mont Blanc. It has such amazing views, outdoor pools and has a full sensory journey to enjoy some much needed relaxation. I would highly recommend. It’s only a 10 minute walk from Chamonix centre.
